Cheating Death

It was Summer on the South Shore in Hawaii on the Island of Oahu. The surf was BIG. On this day I was going to surf to twilight. The surf was intense that day at my favorite spot Rockpiles Rights surfed mostly by regular foot (right foot) surfers that's me, but goofy foot (left foot) surfers like it to.

The sun is making it's descent for another spectacular sunset show. The air is cool with salt mist from the relentless surf pounding on the reef. It's just a feeling of awe being out there in the ocean hearing the waves explode on the reef you are natures guest to a spectacular show of force and beauty and you have a front row seat.   

It's calm for awhile as you wait for the sets to roll in (waves). I spot the wave I want. I'm going for it. I take off on it and it's big and powerful, but it starts to close out on me and I wipe out. What luck, I wipe out in the worst area, I'm still close to the area where the waves start to break so the intensity in that area is like a washing machine. The wipe out is an experience you don't forget it's like drowning but you are prepared before you get sucked underwater tossed around spinning around under water in bubbling dark water as you get pushed down hoping you don't slam into the reef and leave some flesh behind by getting slashed up by the razor sharp reef. It was high tide that day so the reef was not the problem. I was held down so long it felt like an eternity I could feel my surfboard that was attached to my ankle by a surf leash pulling with great force to reach the surface it was partially underwater too. I was underwater as more waves broke over me pounding me. I experienced natures washing machine.

I began to get a feeling that this is the last day of my life. I'm thinking as I try to climb my surf leash back to the surface to grab my surfboard. I realized I should conserve my air. I took a chance with that strategy since I'm also a skin diver and can hold my breath.  

I'm now at death's door step. A feeling of clarity and serenity as you see your life flashing by you and you think of your family and things you haven't done and say I'm not going to die today. With my last remaining breath in me I attempt one more time to make it to the surface. I finally make it to the surface. I paddle away from the break zone to safety to catch my breath.  

The experience that I will never forget. I was a teen when this happened. Life flashing by you and you get to live.